Au Rez de Chaussée

This picturesque place in the oldest part of Bourges is sure to take you on a bistronomic trip. Here, Radio Jazz and the sound of owner Jean Pierre Fournal’s air kissesset the mood, along with old-fashioned posters and carefully mismatched tables. Served à la carte the day we went for lunch: crisp vegetables (snow peas, carrots, zucchini, black radish, eggplant) with a caramelized citrus dipping sauce; creamy split pea purée topped with oven-roasted artichoke hearts drizzled in cilantro-infused oil, or squid ink risotto sprinkled with grated vieux Comté; and a beautiful berry pavlova for a sweet conclusion to the meal. As for the wines, there’s a clever and concise selection: Quincy from Magali Le Roh or Sancerre from the Domaine Sautereau for €4 a glass. À la carte €25-40. // T.J.