Oh, what a beautiful restaurant! Unless it’s a wine bar? A grocery store? Or is it a mountain chalet? Here at Liquorette, Charlotte Guilliams and Valentin Norberg’s third baby (Botanical cocktail bar is their first, and Stella the dog their second), in which the former put her whole heart and soul into the furnishings (she is an ex-antique dealer, after all), expect a series of young chef residencies all with one thing in common: a shared vision of all things good! After Ombline (Valentin’s sister), who left to open her own restaurant at number 36 of the same street, it was the Oxalis trio (Éléonore Linard, Alessandro Luna and Gilles Robert) who fired off a round of well-made dishes the day we went: homemade ravioli stuffed with feta, pear chutney and Batak berry; œuf parfait, burnt cauliflower mousse, cauliflower popcorn, capers and a small garlic fritter as a dippy soldier; then a diplomat cream with pollen, honey stewed rhubarb, honeycomb and watercress granita. Next? They’ll be replaced by Charles Risselin, the manager, then Gilles Robert will be going solo until the end of the year. In the afternoon, nibble on some snacks (oysters, sardines and platters to share), and on the Lord’s Day, Ombline pays a little visit with her legendary brunch: crêpes Normande, Flemish-style asparagus, croissants with cheese from Maître Corbeau, homemade McMorning, Turkish eggs, polenta fries and BBQ sauce, and bottomless coffee. // Heloise Bartsoen
FEELING THIRSTY? Perfectly executed cocktails concocted by Botanical (vermouth, peach liqueur, tonic at €8), natural wines selected by Guerric Silverberg from Nestor and Catherine Mathieu from Pépite (like the Loire sauvignon gris from Les Frères Paquereau at €5 glass), and a few Illegaal canned beers, such as the Schnelle dark lager or the Vacaarme sour (€3.80).
PRICE: Plates €8-13, brunch €3.50 to €10, platters €12-25, snacks €2-13.
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