This was the one thing the neighborhood was missing – and it’s landed like a tidal wave, sending locals into a frenzy. In this former neighborhood joint, with its original features still intact (a zinc-topped bar, neon ceiling lights, mismatched retro furniture) and a perpetually packed terrace, newcomers Louise Perry (a self-taught chef) and brothers Aristide and Hippolyte Cochin have jumped right in, serving up honest, generous plates with a hefty dose of fun. That evening, as the sun’s rays dreamily filtered through the wide-open windows, we tucked into: impeccable zucchini marinated in green oil, paired with a splodge of yogurt and a shower of roasted hazelnuts; cheeky ricotta and mint croquettes masquerading as arancini, lightly lemony and gently spiced; a generous serving of cacio e pepe crowned with a zucchini blossom; before finishing on an orange blossom panna cotta topped with warmly spiced stewed apricots. Fair warning: at L’Oursin, get too close and you will get stung! · Ama Pola

FEELING THIRSTY? A handful of well-made classic cocktails (€12) and around 20 different wines, of varying styles and hues: a biodynamic Côtes-du-Rhône red from Domaine Les Aphillanthes (€7 a glass) or Ron Rond Blanc, a natural white wine by Anna and André Durrmann (€40 a bottle).

PRICE: Plates €5-25.