Who in Ghent doesn’t know Martino?! Having been around since 1955, not only is this brasserie behind the renowned sandwich of the same name, but it’s also where your parents probably came for a late-night steak after a night on the tiles – or even where they brought you for spaghetti and meatballs when you were a kid. It’s a beautiful story, and one that shows no signs of ending any time soon, as brothers Guillaume and Gilles Noë (the third generation) have taken over their father and aunt’s business, while the former remains in the kitchen. Locals continue to crowd in along the stainless steel counter or at one of the veneered wooden tables, to gobble up a hearty Cheese-Eggburger, the house classic with a mix of pork and beef, peerduuge (a fried egg) and lashings of tomato ketchup and cheese sauce on top; as well as a tender Martino steak covered in a spicy tomato bearnaise sauce and served with crispy fries and homemade mayo. After that, there’s no room for the tiramisu. Instead, we’re left grinning happily from ear to ear, a feeling which we willingly prolong with one last drink at the bar, in the company of aunt Pascaline who takes us on a trip down memory lane. If you find anything more comforting than this spot in the city, the next round is on us! // Joséphine Espe
FEELING THIRSTY? Brasserie aperitifs (port at €7.50 a glass), Picon with white wine (€9), but also a Martino Spritz mixing Campari, Cynar and tonic (€11) and a beautiful list of living wines curated by Guillaume, who is also the sommelier: Crazy Crazy, a German pet’ nat’ by Marto Wines (€48 a bottle), Calanci, a Montepulciano from Cantine Indigeno (€43 a bottle), or Aube, a Burgundy pinot noir from Domaine Dandélion (€100).
PRICE: Starters €10-18, mains €23-36, sides €2-10, desserts €9.
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