“Kids!” (“mômes”), that’s exactly what comes to mind when you see the baby faces of Raffi Vranckx (ex-Bozar, La Villa in the Sky, Au Repos de la Montagne) and Emma Wayet (ex-Crème and Ciao), the whippersnapper owners of what used to be Bistro Madame. Okay, fine, kids maybe, but enfants terribles for sure, who’ve swapped toy tea sets for grown-up cuisine, served with gastronomic precision on bistro-style checkered tablecloths. Backed in the kitchen by François Vanes and Arcady Scole, Raffi (ex-line chef at Karen Torosyan) fires out joyful lunchtime menus: a striking smoked mackerel toast with an escabeche-laced gazpacho made from the last of the summer tomatoes; a pair of chicken croquettes coated in a buckwheat crumb, served with braised cabbage and black garlic mayo; plus a silky-smooth greengage plum sabayon for dessert. Come evening, things crank up a notch: outstanding sliced raw amberjack atop a smoky beet cream, streaked with white gazpacho and herb oil; slow-cooked pointed cabbage painted with coriander mayo; a nostalgia-filled combo of grilled steak and homemade fries; and creamy pearl barley risotto with wild mushrooms. Such wild childs! · Carole Scarole and Laszlo Dela

FEELING THIRSTY? A wine list that’s still finding its rhythm (Panorama, a Languedoc chardonnay from Domaine Les Hautes Terres at €8 a glass, or a Romain Le Bars Rhône red at €64 a bottle), plus some intriguing soft drinks, like Emma’s homemade plum and mandarin kombucha (€6 a glass) and Scob naturally sparkling tea (€44 a bottle).

PRICE: Lunch menus €27-32 (2-3 courses), starters €14-17, mains €24-30, Sœurs cheese and desserts €10-15.