Bistro, bistro, on the wall, who’s serving the fairest food of them all? In Saint-Boniface, it’s Moutarde, bringing a whimsical twist to classic brasserie codes with a healthy dollop of contemporary edge. Holding court around the marble-topped bar, the Formica tables trimmed with brass and the Parisian-style terrace are owners Victor Roisin (also behind Gratin and Le Tigre) and Tom Damour (an architect by training, kudos for the decor), joined by Benjamin Moortgat (ex-Chez Franz) running the dining room and chef Pierre de Bizet (ex-Chalet de la Forêt) in the kitchen. The quartet’s credo? Delicious dishes and never-empty glasses! Take the menu that lunchtime: textbook shrimp croquettes with mega-crispy breading; plump mushroom and celeriac ravioli bobbing in a deeply shroomy emulsion; before a devilishly good Dame Blanche ice cream sundae proclaiming “ici, ici, het is België!” Other unmissable eats include the house best-sellers: an américain (Belgian-style steak tartare) with fries, sausage and mash, or even chicken with applesauce – not to mention the all-day crowd-pleasing snacks like tarama, oeufs mayo and bellota ham. It just goes to show, there’s no place like home! · Jeanne Jaco

FEELING THIRSTY? A broad-ranging lineup from classic to natural: an Alsatian skin-contact wine on tap from Pépin (€6.50 a glass), a Burgundy chardonnay from Dampt Frères (€35 a bottle) or a morgon Côte du Py from Jean-Marc Burgaud (€57). Also on offer: Khop Killer NEIPA from Illegaal brewery (€5.90 a can) and homemade iced tea (€4 for 350 ml).

PRICE: Appetizers €14-23, mains €19-29, desserts €9-12, snacks €7.50-19.