Who’s stepping up to fill the void left by Kobe Desramaults’ De Superette in Ghent’s (Neapolitan) pizza scene? Opened in May 2024 by Iranian Pouya Dehghan, Neo has made its case and is immediately leading the frontrunners. And watch out! There’s a jostle at the door to snag one of the 16 coveted seats (not including those at the counter or on the terrace). While the wood-fired oven busily churns out both take-out and eat-in orders, there’s laughter all round and when things quieten down, you can properly enjoy the sound of Madeleine Peyroux in the background. So, what about the pizzas? Made with a seventy-year-old sourdough starter and left to ferment for 48 hours, the dough is wonderfully fluffy, beautifully blistered and topped with the best things Italy and Belgium have to offer: like the Neo, with San Marzano tomatoes, fior di latte mozzarella, grilled eggplant and figs, spicy salami and hazelnuts; or the ‘Nduavola, with ‘nduja and fresh arugula; the Formaggi Quintet, with gorgonzola, parmesan, scamorza, and pecorino; and roasted pineapple for the Hawaii Special at… €999, which only Justin Trudeau would dare order. To finish, a flavor-bomb tiramisu – which outshined the pistachio cannolo, which was a little soggy. // Edgar Funkel

FEELING THIRSTY? Aperol spritz (€9.50), homemade lemonade (saffron, chia seeds, mint, and rose water, €5.50), Tout Bien pilsner (€4) or a glass of ordinary Italian wine available in three colors (€5.50).

PRICE: Pizzas €14-24, desserts €7.50-8.50.