High up in Ghent’s Wintercircus building, the real spectacle is in the kitchen, and the best seats in the house are at Tribune. The trio running the show? Tim Nowé juggling the drinks, Thijs Beddeleem in the kitchen and Thomas Depraetere as the ringmaster (the same team behind Bar Bassie and Sir Catering), who together put on a culinary performance in a slick setting designed by Altu and Studio Stories (raw concrete, chrome mirrors, carefully placed designer touches). On the menu that lunchtime? A nori seaweed cracker, sea bass sashimi, nashi pear, and ssamjang paste as a sizzling appetizer; followed by a rather graphic-looking crab roll – a flaky brioche bun from Joost Arijs, stuffed with North Sea crab, mayo, pickled rhubarb and a quail egg; burrata with cherries, mint, pistachios and a savory crumble; and for the main attraction, a vol-au-vent filled with the whole shebang, fireworks and all, with lobster, free-range chicken, sweetbreads, mousseline sauce, crunchy celery and mushrooms, plus triple-cooked fries on the side. And for the sweet last act, a mille-feuille with Belgian strawberries, Swiss cream, elderflower and some rather present verbena. A true standing-ovation moment! · Basil Hic

​​​​​​​FEELING THIRSTY? Tribune’s cellar has a stash of both natural and conventional wines: Bockenheim, a spätburgunder by Neiss (€11 a glass), a 2021 Montagny from Marthe Henry (€86 a bottle) and a 2019 Granato from Elisabetta Foradori (€108). Alternatively, enjoy a house mocktail (€12) or a geuze from 3 Fonteinen (€13 for 375 ml).

PRICE: Set menu €40 (lunch), plates €18-49.