Bakker Klaas by day, Studio Mario by night. Except that neither Klaas nor Mario is actually behind the oven here. That’s because Bart Claessen, Floris Vandamme and sourdough maestro Matteo Van Dijl (ex-Superette) have taken over the Mariakerke bakery founded by Klaas Vandenbroucke and his partner Trui. The result? A vast, pared-back space filled with designer lighting and Thonet chairs. And the menu? Pizzas with a satisfyingly chewy base, a perfectly crisp crust and a beautifully moist center. After a blast in the blazing wood-fired oven, the Marinara gets things off to a perfect start; followed by the Pickles, topped with pickled onions and carrots, mustard, parsley, sage and mozzarella; then the signature Mario pizza with cherry tomatoes, ricotta and tarragon. Mario, or rather, Matteo, has really nailed it. · Arno Bintjens

Feeling thirsty? Eight cocktail classics, including the Golden Hour (limoncello, white vermouth, tonic and rosemary, €13), plus well-chosen beers including Trappist ales and Tilquin gueuzes (€12 for 375 ml). The compact wine list boats a bold Chianti Classico from Tenuta Casenuove in Panzano (€50 per bottle).

Price: Small plates €6-€18, pizzas €17-€22, desserts €8.