Chirp chirp! Oiseau Oiseau (Best Crush Fooding Guide 2023) has flown its nest in the Perche for good, bound for new horizons. After five years of (verrrrry) good and loyal service, Sven Chartier has handed over the keys to his prized little gem to his former right-hand woman, Yolène Grosselin, Mélissa Dima and Adrien Beyer – three hunters of all things delicious who previously worked at D’une île table d’hôte in Rémalard. The décor has stayed put (polished concrete, whitewashed beams, a zinc-topped bar and understated furniture), but the plates are all about local sourcing, foraging and straight-talking cooking that tastes unmistakably of the Perche. More good news? A wallet-friendly lunch deal, plus the freedom to drop in for a glass (courtesy of a collaboration with La Vie en Rouge in Mortagne), perched at the bar or out on the terrace with its guinguette vibe. · Clara Javaques

Ate: Juicy slow-cooked beets with fresh goat cheese, tarragon and pickles; perfectly seasoned house-made rillettes; and a beautifully crisp Milanese cutlet with carrots and lovage.

Price: Set menu €22-26 (lunch) and €40-45 (dinner).