Old Boy’s all fired up! After months of renovations (and a brief pop-up brasserie), the relentless duo of Xavier Chen and John Prigogine (a former sales engineer and legal expert) have taken their Asian eatery to the next level. The main attraction? The sacrosanct holy fire worthy of Bangkok’s street food scene, turning every dish into a smoky, sizzling spectacle. Things were certainly hotting up the day we went for lunch; juicy and tender Brasvar pork skewers and asparagus skewers glazed in a delicious nam jim jaew sauce, to kick things off; followed by a magnificent, albeit very spicy steak tartare with lemongrass, made with Rouge des Flandres beef from the Dierendonck butcher’s; before being blown away by the mussels stir-fried to perfection in a devilishly good kra pao sauce – an irresistible blend of Thai basil, garlic, oyster sauce, sugar and chili (which we opted for over the braised duck panang curry). To round off the never-ending feast, it was a fight-to-the-finish for the last spoonful of the Thai tea condensed milk ice cream, with coconut cream and caramelized pecans. Stunning! · Billie Relish

FEELING THIRSTY? Belgian lambic beers from 3 Fonteinen (€33-43 for 750 ml) or fruity ales from Antidoot, like the Szechuan Blues with Szechuan pepper and Italian blood orange (€38). There’s also a darn fine selection of sakes, like a yuzu Yokogoichi from Heiwa Shuzo (€7 a glass), or Tamagawa Yamahai (€8).

PRICE: Set menus €55-60, skewers €4.50 to €6, shared plates €13-18, mains €26-35, desserts €9.