Restaurant Onassis (Marseille)

© Onassis

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The Corniche Kennedy has the wind in its sails! Above his fish bar, adman Georges Mohammed-Chérif (the boss of Buzzman) has opened Onassis, named after the shipping magnate Aristote Onassis – Jackie Kennedy’s second husband. It’s a briny restaurant split into two sections (Riviera-esque stripes and an open kitchen upstairs, a brutalist lounge with a communal table in the loft), where chef Joffrey Bohaër, who sharpened his skills and blades under Mory Sacko, takes guests on a five-course journey. The night we went, plenty of good thing took us out to sea: a flame-charred oyster from Maison Giol shaken up by kiwi compote; a savory Tunisian beignet with raw bluefin tuna, caviar and a peppery herb salad; a deliciously psychedelic scallop and red cabbage ceviche on acid (from the lemon and ginger dressing); a divine yakitori-style cuttlefish and Comté skewer; before chocolate ganache with tonka bean cream, titillated by olive oil and fleur de sel for dessert. // Victoria Bout

FEELING THIRSTY? Around 20 pleasurable wines to explore: Exilé, a Touraine pet’ nat’ from the Joussets (€9 a glass), a Provence Vermentino and Ugni blanc combo from Les Béates (€40 a bottle), Le Gneiss, a Roussillon blend from the Domaine Benastra (€38)…  
PRICE: Tasting menu €59. 

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