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Tucked away above Place du Terrail, Fumio Ishikawa’s tiny izakaya (a windowed bar, a single blonde wood table) offers a dozen well-informed Marseille guests some authentic family cooking. The other day at lunch, the former chef of Kyo Sushi sent us soaring into the Land of the Rising Sun: divine edamame/cheese croquettes with a curried yogurt sauce; imperial meagre sushi sliced fresh; chicken salad with white beans electrified by wasabi; a masterful breaded chicken nanban covered in tartar sauce, plus pickled radish and new potatoes; before a heartening daifuku (a type of mochi) infused with mugwort, or a slice of (gluten-free) matcha cake. // N.K.

FEELING THIRSTY? Homemade sparkling lemonade (€3.50 a glass), ice-cold Kirin beer (€3.90 for 330 ml) and a tiny selection of natural wines: a Rhone white from the Domaine Chaume-Arnaud (€5.40 a glass), Soif de Plaisir, a Roussillon red from Le Clot de l’Origine (€29 a bottle).

PRICE: Prices €8.70 and €13.80, desserts €2-3.

The very first Le Fooding Belgium guide!

Le Fooding’s brand-new, unique and totally collector-worthy Belgium guide is a gold mine of hot spots, featuring 400 addresses scattered across Wallonia, Flanders and Brussels. Over the magazine’s 164 pages, you’ll discover a slew of new establishments, like the latest hard cider bar worth checking out, alongside well-established institutions, including a tavern opened 250 years ago, plus seven saucy long-form articles, all of which are illustrated by the crème de la crème of Belgian artists…

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover

Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

Fooding® is a registered trademark.