Mijoba

Everybody take shelter! The fiery David Mijoba has whipped up an atomic spot in what used to be known as Vénus, high up on Boulevard Vauban, featuring explosively flavorful cuisine and a wine cellar in an actual cave! After breaking down expectations at Le Café des Épices, Jogging and Copper Bay, the Venezuelan chef sets off his flavor bombs in a dining room that feels a bit sexier than a bomb shelter (waxed concrete floors, wooden tables, woven rattan chairs), sandwiched on either side by a small terrace and the improbable wine cellar in the courtyard. Featured on the sea-faring, veg-heavy menu the day we went for lunch: fresh Mediterranean anchovies marinated in Phu Quoc pepper, served with salt-baked beetroot and indulgent Gascon porc noir pork belly croutons – or a plump raw milk ricotta raviolo, paired with lentils, fresh chestnuts and a herbaceous condiment; surprising and delightful cuttlefish green curry served with grilled polenta – or a more classic local mackerel fillet served grilled with leeks and asparagus (the very first ones of the season), drizzled in a za’atar vinaigrette; and if you’ve still got room afterwards, an adorable country strawberry tartlet, with added sorrel and white chocolate, for an original touch. // Victoria Bout

FEELING THIRSTY? An inspired wine selection (Avant la Tempête, a Savoie Jacquère from Mathieu Apffel at €6 a glass, a Jura skin-contact wine from the Domaine des Marnes Blanches at €7.50…), along with lovely beers from the Brasserie du Mont Salève (€5-7 for 330 ml).
PRICE: Set menus €32-35 (lunch), €59 (five courses, dinner). Wine pairing €38.