You’ll need a proper Boot up the backside to reach this summit! Perched on the heights of the Vauban district, this Marseille-accented outpost of the Parisian trattoria owned by fratelli Cristian and Kevin Stradaioli follows the same recipe for success – this time with a menu inspired by the bountiful waters of the Mediterranean sea. Its elegant yet unfussy decor (rough raw walls, high palazzo ceilings, a marble-topped central island) draws a swish crowd unafraid of gluten and more than ready to put those immaculate tablecloths to work. Pumped by a playlist of French artists, the evening’s lineup of antipasti, primi and secondi hit all the right notes: delicate red tuna crudo – prepared using the ikejime method – enhanced with a drizzle of olive oil; a wickedly generous serving of vitello tonnato; linguine alle vongole glistening with delight; plump ricotta ravioli stuffed doused in a lemony butter sauce; a moreish mussel and squid ragù, mopped up with bread as if our lives depended on it… And for dessert, a textbook tiramisu with just the right amount of creaminess, much needed to soften the sting of the check! · Folayemi Abimbola

FEELING THIRSTY? A drinks menu with a southern accent, from aperitivo to digestivo:
Campari spritz (€8), Negroni sbagliato (€12) or pastis (€4) to kick things off; followed by Gagà, a Venetian garganega from the Santa Colomba estate (€33 a bottle); and artisanal La Meiro génépi (€10) or Capovilla grappa (€30) to finish. And for those going no-low, there’s Chinotto (€5).

PRICE: Appetizers €6-16, mains €19-29, desserts €9-10.