Onslow restaurant (Bruges)

© Onslow

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Uh-oh, there’s trouble brewing in Bruges! And who’s to blame, none other than the riotous Lieven Vynck and Rebecca Vandekerckhove, who swapped their well-mannered, central gastronomic spot, Lieven, to serve food with drinks (or drinks with food, however you see fit) in the popular Sint-Anna district. After a stylish renovation going for amiably rowdy dining vibes (checkerboard tiles, a long counter, upholstered banquettes, vintage crockery), they’re now ready to cause a commotion! On the chef’s plates? All the talent we’ve come to expect, with added mischief, and everything made to share: flamboyant labneh with chili oil; perfectly cooked whole turbot liberally doused in butter and electrifying fried capers; fried chicken – simply perfect… Watch out, riots may break out over reservations – fortunately, Lieven and Rebecca always keep a few free stools at the bar or in the entrance. // Anita Kane

FEELING THIRSTY? A sulfite-free cast: À Grands Pas chardonnay from Le Cellier du Pic in the Hérault (€6 a glass), La Rumbera, a Catalan skin-contact from Oriol Artigas (€50 a bottle), a red Bellmunt Negre from Mas d’en Gil (€55) not far from the latter… But also, Bavik pilsner (€3 for 250 ml), in homage to its former bruin café status.

PRICE: Tapas-style small plates €5-24.

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