After putting some brilliant twists on two authentic truck stop joints (Les Marches in the 16^th arrondissement and Aux Bons Crus in the 11^th), twins Margot and Félix Dumant tripled down on old school charm by taking over the much fancier Aux Crus de Bourgogne in the Montorgueil neighborhood in 2019. Seated inside the bona fide turn-of-the-20^th-century dining room (red velvet benches, white tablecloths, mirrored walls) or on the gigantic terrace, devour all the great classics of French cuisine. For us, the night we went for dinner: good homemade rillettes to get things started; excellent pâté en croûte; honest steak tartare served with golden fries; before a gigantic and very chocolatey mousse served with a fat madeleine. But careful, if you decide to order the sole meunière or some of the specials of the day, the prices might detract from the pleasure of your meal… Also worth knowing: take advantage of the magical terrace without breaking the bank thanks to the weekday prix-fixe lunch menu. // C.C.

FEELING THIRSTY? There are Burgundy wines (a Mâcon-Fuissé from the Domaine Giroux at €10 a glass, a Rully white from David Moret at €60 a bottle, a Givry red from the Domaine Joblot at €69)…

PRICE: Menu €22 (weekday lunch), à la carte €31-58.