Royal blue walls, a windowed kitchen, semi-translucent suspension lamps, locally made ceramics, two communal tables and nothing else… The Parisian touches feel quite nice at Marie and Etienne’s restaurant (both of whom used to work at Bien Elevé in Paris). During our last dinner there: stunning eggplant caviar with seeded crackers; briny veal tartare with sea beans (meat is the chef’s specialty!); a 400-gram steak cooked rare to share, paired with creamy new potatoes or spelt and zucchini; before ending the meal on strawberries straight up in an elderberry jus alongside cat’s tongue cookies. // T.V.X.

FEELING THIRSTY? Tu Vins Plus Aux Soirées, a natural Lot red from Fabien Jouves (€6 a glass); Les Jardins, an organic Alsace Riesling from the Domaine Ostertag (€35 a bottle); or lovely gins from the Distillerie d’Hautefeuille (€7 for 40 ml).

PRICE: À la carte €33-42, steak €60 for 500 g, monkfish €42 (for two).