Bouche (Paris)

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It took two years for Angela Kong and Antoine Bernardin (ex-Les Niçois) to unearth and fully renovate this old neighborhood kebab shop, with the help of Atelier Leymarie Gourdon. The result? Bouche, a lively space with rough stone walls, a concrete bar and a hidden communal table, where Florent Peineau (ex-Gare au Gorille) sends out flashy small plates. Devoured the night we went: chewy croquettas stuffed with ‘nduja – a spicy Calabrian sausage; a combo of braised carrots, smoked paprika sabayon, feta, rhubarb and a spicy oil that left us speechless; a surprising meagre tartare with pepper water, dill cream, pickled celery and cucumber; or even an ultra-comforting dish of crispy pork topped with Vietnamese herbs and a five-spice jus de viande – gobbled up like a spring roll! As for the sweets, there were chocolate-buckwheat churros or a strawberry-yogurt ice cream bar, which still had the kinks being worked out. // Adrien Bir

FEELING THIRSTY? A selection of natural and biodynamic wines crafted by Antoine Duvignacq, the sommelier at Epoq in Biarritz: a Languedoc red from the Domaine de Courbissac (€6 a glass), a Beaujolais from Kevin Descombes (€7 a glass), a Livia white from Samos (€38 a bottle)… Craving something other than wine? There’s a mezcal, orange, kumquat, lemon and orange blossom granita cocktail (€12) and Belleville Brûlerie coffee (€2.50).

PRICE: Plates €5-28.

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