Carabasse (Beaulieu)

© Yann Espenel

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Organic vegetables from Cédric Nouis, locally sourced meats from Gérald Deschanels, olive oil from Jocelyn Vigouroux… Christelle and Yann Espenel play a locavore tune in their magnificent stone sheepfold, decorated with wrought-iron tables and African masks hanging from the walls. What should you expect? A seven-course set tasting menu, which the chef serves for next to nothing – a mere €35! The last time we went, it included: excellent trout sashimi with peas in a kalamansi vinaigrette; smoked eel in a very fresh tomato gazpacho; a clever, slow-roasted eggplant paired with a miso emulsion; tender free-range roasted guinea fowl supreme with tarragon, spelt wheat and a creamy jus de cuisson, sauced up with some excellent homemade sourdough bread; slow-roasted hake fillet with artichokes and an electrifying sauce vierge; a somewhat uninspired tiramisu; before whole blackberries and raspberries covered in crumble and paired with a graceful Mara des Bois strawberry sorbet. One piece of advice? Be on time for your reservation, because the courses are served at the same time to all guests! // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? Thirty-some natural, local wines: Petite Selve, a red blend from the Château de la Selve (€4 a glass), a Sople e Joios Gamay or a La Mai Polida Viognier from Mas de l’Escarida (€20 and €21 a bottle), Les Pitchounettes, a Crozes-Hermitages from the Domaine Les 4 Vents (€30)….

PRICE: Set menu €35 (7 courses).

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