Despite the blasted coronavirus, Loïs Lacoste (an expert in natural wines) and Margaux Laborde (a self-taught chef) reinvested in Récré in Les Vans by adopting Julia Dubois, after her stint at La Boria in Privas. The other day at lunch, in the cool, retro space (tomette tile floors, bistro chairs, photos of Baptiste Diet, an ivy-covered terrace), the terroir-ist tapas from the two accomplices came together quite nicely: a cheeky pork liver terrine with plenty of pickles (carrots, onions and zucchini); lovely slow-roasted eggplant on homemade pita with herbed yogurt; a charming roasted zucchini with escargots in persillade from the Restanques farm, crushed almonds, spring onions and fresh tarragon; then firm green beans with goat cheese from Les Chevriers de Fereyrolles and an egg yolk preserved in umeboshi vinegar; before a copious shortbread cookie topped with a very juicy slice of peach and a sprinkling of Kampot pepper… // Goulven Le Pollès

FEELING THIRSTY? Wines from near (a Gamay from Sylvain Bock at €5 a glass, a Syrah from Andréa Calek at €37 a bottle) and afar – a Catalan red from Tuets (€28), a Greek orange from Jason Ligas (€32)…

PRICE: Small plates €4-12.