Likoké (Les Vans)

  • Date
  • share

While chef Piet Huysentruyt’s soul still reigns over this Ardèche hideaway, his son Cyriel has been doing a good job of staying the course since he took over in 2019. In the sleek dining room (waxed concrete floors, bare ash wood tables), the talented Guido Niño Torres – who has climbed all the ranks at this restaurant in the last five years – is making the Ardèche terroir shine without neglecting his Latin American roots. The other night, the 10-course menu (€95) featured: a delicate duck liver parfait and lacto-fermented vegetables (cucumber, radish and cauliflower); incredible arepa (cornbread) topped with smoked pork belly, achiote and pickled onions; duck hearts that were perfectly grilled in the Big Green Egg grill, kimchi and a light hollandaise sauce; a slightly sweet lobster and blood sausage macaron; divine kohlrabi spaghetti and shiitake mushrooms plunged into a rich dashi; lovely trout sashimi bathed in a clever kombucha and tiger’s milk mixture, with trout roe and pickled fennel for added zing; a matured young turbot fillet and palourde clams swathed in a tasty white wine emulsion, fermented milk and shellfish fumet; dry-aged duck supreme with carrots prepared a variety of ways (smoked, fermented, etc.) and a perfectly full-bodied duck jus; before an ultra-fresh orange-Campari granita, then some delicious whole strawberries with a thyme blossom ice cream and herbs from the kitchen garden. // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? The crème de la crème of low-intervention wines (Pfifferling, Allemand, Dard et Ribo…), such as a local red from Andrea Calek (€9 a glass), a fluid Bourgogne Aligoté from Pacalet (€80 a bottle) or a macerated Viognier from Daniel Sage in the Haute-Loire (€60).

PRICE: Menus €45 (lunch), €95 and €145.

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

Fooding® is a registered trademark.