Wooden planks on the ceiling, mismatched furniture and blond wood tables, a windowed wall that gives out onto a courtyard garden, a long, waxed concrete bar and stylish staff…. Welcome to the small bistro of Bertrand Grébaut and Théo Pourriat, who will take you on an extraordinary voyage (no reservations!) to the country of seafood: insane wild oysters from Ireland in season; razor clams from Dieppe with a herb butter; tourteau crab from the Finistère with curried mayo; majestic shrimp from Oléron in a herb broth with smoked vinegar and salted plums; juicy sautéed pistachio-breaded zucchini and pumpkin seeds with a creamy cod taramasalata; legendary Colbert whiting with spiced eggplant purée…. And to churn up some more waves: Bourgogne blanc Esquisse from De Moor (€7 a glass), Mâcon-Villages blanc Guillot (€39 a bottle), an elegant Morave blanc from Nestarec (€44) or a Barbera Roccalini (€40)…. Before an exquisite and classic maple syrup tart. Plates €7-22. // R.deC.