If you’re hoping to cast anchor at Bertrand Grébaut and Théo Pourriat’s seafood joint, then you’d better get there right when it opens – they don’t take reservations and it fills up quick. Inside this brutally sleek spot with a dimly-lit atmosphere (a long bar, romantic alcoves, an industrial-style windowed wall), the seafood plates provoke a tsunami of the senses. Our lunch that day: tempting yellow pollack accras with huancaína (€9); funny-looking goose neck barnacles from Belle-Ile, seasoned with a garlic and chili condiment (€12); melt-in-your-mouth bluefin tuna carpaccio with Solliès figs and mustard seeds (€16); stunning hubbub of Tarbes beans and mussels from Laïta in a vin jaune sauce (€11); incredible sweet baby corn with spiced butter and shrimp powder (€10); before a cult-favorite maple syrup tartelette with whipped cream (€8). To drink, if you want to avoid low tide: a superb red Uno di Noi from Tenuta Macchiarola in Puglia (€8 a glass), a white from the Il Roccolo di Mezzomerico estate (€8.50), SP68, a white from Arianna Occhipinti (€38 a bottle), or Les Cèdres, a Côtes-du-Jura from Ganevat (€61). Dishes €9-26. // S.L.