In this historic bistro (it’s the former refreshment stall for the neighboring Cirque d’Hiver), Sven Chartier and Ewen Lemoigne, who also own Saturne, were right to place their trust in Sota Atsumi (ex-Vivant during the David Lanher period) to reignite French cuisine. In his tiny kitchen tucked away at the back of a room decorated with ceramics, the Japanese chef sends out very good dishes to an international clientele that’s increasingly bourgeois and less and less bohemian. They blindly stick their forks into whatever is on the menu, surprising themselves by liking what they wouldn’t enjoy anywhere else. Take the steak, anchovy and mango tartare, for example (€17); the very simple clams cooked with sake (€11); the duck and foie gras pithiviers with a date cream (a cult-favorite, €30); and the very Instagrammable veal brains with ponzu sauce (€12); or even the crispy pork belly with bottarga and cilantro (€14)… In short, it’s a real treat, but what a shame that the prices are constantly being raised! We set a new record the day we went for lunch, with the catch of the day, a brill fillet, served with an egg yolk, green asparagus and lardo di colonnata for €42! There’s the same attention to quality and strict prices when it comes to the wines: a superb glass of Lassaigne (€15), a Mâcon-Village white from Julien Guillot (€9), a Syrah, Le Canon, from Hirotake Ooka in the Ardèche (€6.50) … Mains €9-42. // O.J.