Sven Chartier and Ewen Lemoigne (Saturne) have brought a smile back to the face of this old Cirque d’hiver bistro/bar, closed for a longtime, with tiled walls and a ceiling decorated with painted clowns. As the ringmaster, Sota Atsumi (ex-Vivant Table) does double duty as a contortionist in the marionette-sized kitchen to the delight of curious diners. The evening of our visit: a striking meager ceviche with cilantro and bottarga; shredded tourteau crab with feta in a tomato gazpacho bath; foie gras with smoked eel and button mushrooms. And for game lovers, an incredible pigeon from Mesquer with smoked herbs and sautéed potatoes, or a juicy and rare duck and foie gras pithiviers sweetened by a date jam. The finale was just as impressive with a cloud of panna cotta placed atop a peach soup, with basil syrup and ice cream for €9. To drink, the wildly naturalist wine list can be appreciated inside or on the terrace: a Syrah by Gérald Oustric in the Ardèche (€8 a glass), a Pinot Noir by Jacky Preys in Touraine (€7), a Saint-Romain La Combe Bazin from Frédéric Cossard (€68 a bottle)…. Dishes €8-31. // N.K.