Welcome to Elmer, a food trip from Simon Horwitz, who’s got a first-rate resume to his name – Gagnaire, Grébaut, Meneau, Wahid, etc. In the big Scandi-chic dining room with solid oak, cast iron and ceramics, the well-traveled thirty-something chef mocks globalization, choosing instead to focus on the very best Franco-Frenchie products: line-caught meager, pigeon from Pornic, beef from Huguenin, lamb from Anne-Laure Jolivet, cheeses from Jean-Pierre Pignol… The day we went, on the bistro menu (€29): very simple salmon gravlax with green apples and avocado; medium-rare skirt steak with mashed potatoes, tarragon, shallots and mushrooms; and a strawberry soup with crushed pink pralines, lime granita and mint. At night, the menu gets dressed up for a gala (langoustine ravioli, veal sweetbreads roasted in salted butter, Cléry strawberries) and serves guests in pairs with big roasted or barbecued cuts of meat meant to be shared, like monkfish tail, pork chops, veal shank, or suckling lamb, from €72 to €78. And to drink, the wines flow (naturally) from good sources: a white Pinot Alsace from Vincent Fleith (€8 a glass), a Montlouis-sur-Loire from Frantz Saumon (€57 a bottle), a Terrasses-du-Larzac, L’Infidèle, from Le Mas Cal Demoura (€55). Set menus €25-29 (lunch), à la carte €50-70 (dinner). // D.C.