Restaurant Elmer in ParisElmer (Paris) - © Alexandre Ubeda

Amongst the wild gastronomical rubble of La Jeune Rue, Simon Horwitz hatched this chic atelier-inspired neo-bistro (varnished raw wood tables, Miniforms chairs, thick curtains…), with interior design by Aude Gros-Rosanvallon. After learning the tricks of the trade from Wahid, Gagnaire, Grébaut and Meneau, traveling in Asia and Latin America, the chef has finally settled down at Elmer, where he grills (half wild duck over wood charcoal), spins the roasting spit and stitches together polychromatic, trilogical, deconstructed dishes: Coucou de Rennes chicken + beets + roasted onions; suckling lamb from the Pyrenees + sunchokes + broccoli breadcrumbs; line-caught hake + parsnips + Brussels sprouts…. The menu is conceived in such a way that you can pick and choose as you like. Like we did that day at lunch, with a mix of appetizers and desserts: a beautiful grilled octopus tentacle, faisselle cheese, leeks and black radish; pan-fried lamb sweetbreads teased by spinach and sorrel, with a curious Peruvian ground apple (yacón); celery cooked over hay, anchovies and fried mushrooms with a little hummus; pumpkin, crumble and honey ice cream, or a sweet almond shortbread, pear and lemon cream for the (not overly) sweet finale. It was all backed up by a natural wine list that guarantees a lively time: sparkling Savoyard Perles du Mont Blanc from Belluard, Touraine Cent Visages from Merieau, etc., starting at €28 a bottle and €6 a glass. Dish of the day €18 (lunch), appetizers €10 (€18 for two, €33 for four), dishes €23, desserts €9 (€16 for two, €29 for four). // Yves Nespoulous

Getting there

Restaurant Elmer
30, rue Notre Dame de Nazareth
TEL: +33 1 43 56 22 95
Subway: République, Strasbourg-Saint-Denis, Arts et Métiers