Frenchie bar à vins
In the Frenchie family, we want… the wine bar! Posted up on rue du Nil, the younger brother of the bistrological fine dining establishment has no reason to envy its older sibling. Seated in a space with bare brick walls, dim lighting and an open kitchen, we dug into some truly excellent flavor bombs the night we went: lustful Puy green lentil falafel with pickled cucumber and spicy harissa; good fat ravioli filled with pieces of sole and runny egg yolk, bathed in a powerful mushroom/green curry cream; leeks that were too oily and salty, sprinkled with Piedmont hazelnuts and taramasalata; grilled octopus with well-prepared Soissons beans, smoked yogurt and za’atar; Kintoa pork loin cooked in a salt crust, butter beans and Datterino tomatoes; before a Brexitant apricot, orange blossom and pistachio cream cheesecake for a beautiful ending to the meal. // G.LeP.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a rich wine collection, with no fewer than 22 natural wines (a taut Loire from the Domaine Landron-Chartier at €6, a buttery Puligny-Montrachet from Etienne Sauzet at €25…), and lots of big names from the clean wine movement: Barret, Riberach, Léclapart…
PRICE: Small plates €11-29, desserts €10-12.