Watch out, the Galerne winds are blowing through Gambetta! And through Spain too, as this northwesterly wind fills the sails of Iñigo Ruiz Rituerto (ex-Jourdain), who’s anchored this joyful spot (brick walls, a tiled and windowed kitchen) in a not-very-foodie-centric corner of East Paris. The night we went, served à la carte, there were a few Spanish 3.0 eats that were still working out the kinks but were already delightful: gilda like in Saint-Sébastien (an olive-anchovy-guindilla pintxo spiked onto a toothpick); a festive “bikini” shredded duck sandwich; excellent grilled sardines in a luminous vegetable dressing with mandolined fennel, a piquillo pepper mousse and pickled onion petals; a muy bonito roasted lamb chop spiced with ñora chilies, plus a duo of carrots (purée and a glazed whole carrot); before a tonka bean chocolate mousse under a blizzard of strawberry sorbet for dessert. // A.A.
FEELING THIRSTY? Ask Katarzyna Kucharczyk for advice: an oxidative manzanilla from the Bodegas Barón (€5 a glass), an aromatic Galician white from Fento Wines (€36 a bottle), an Irouléguy red from Arretxea (€56)…
PRICE: Set menus from €15.50 to €18.50 (weekday lunch), pixtos and tapas €2-10 (dinner).