L’Avant-Comptoir de la Mer
A tantalizing oyster bar lines the street, while inside, there’s a long bar with a few barstools, where tipsy gourmet diners and chic neighbors come for a taste of the sea breeze. Much like all of Yves Camdeborde’s other Avant-Comptoirs, there’s no menu here. The names, prices and photos of the plates feature on posters instead. The day we went, there were n°3 spéciale oysters from Jean-Paul Garnier in Normandy (€11 for three, €20 for six), along with some other ocean treats: a generous platter of smoked fish (€25); fresh cod ceviche in a lemony marinade, with strips of tangy apple (€8); clams in coconut milk with cilantro (€7.5)…The wine list is dominated by natural wines of the moment: a Morgon, Eponym’, from Jean Foillard (€11 a glass), a dry Jurançon, Marie, from Charles Hours (€8), a white Gaillac from Michel Issaly (€22 a bottle). FYI: they have seafood platters sold to go or available for delivery. À la carte €15-40. // E.T.-S.