Nine years after opening Le Galopin, the Tischenko brothers finally left their mischievous bistro behind to focus their attention on their adjacent wine shop & bar (red bricks, a shiny zinc-topped bar, globe light fixtures, Michel Tolmer posters). The night we went, while Fabrice Mansouri was popping open bottles, Romain and Maxime sent out a series of flavor bombs: a rather sassy grey mullet carpaccio with fennel and clementine; lusty blood pudding in a beetroot cream with quartered figs and mustard seeds; a hearty veal tartare with hummus and feta; a light smoked herring with cauliflower and Kalamata olives; before a chocolate ganache with olive oil and fleur de sel that’ll have you wanting to come back for more! // T.V.X.

FEELING THIRSTY? An outstanding wine selection: a Tours Chenin from Mikaël Bouges (€6 a glass), a Nivernois Gamay from Alexandre Bain, a Melon from La Soeur Cadette, a Languedoc red from Opi Daqui (€30 for each bottle)….

PRICE: Small plates €3-10.