Abondance cattle farmer Victorine Ansanay-Alex opened up a café-épicerie in this chalet almost a century ago. Then, almost 70 years later, her grandson, James, decided to turn it into a restaurant with big communal tables and cowhide chairs. Nowadays you’ll find James’ brother-in-law, Denis Vinet, cooking up beautiful everyday dishes and fondues. The other night, the €44 menu featured: graceful slices of glazed yellow and orange carrots, Chinese artichokes and turnips, over almond milk mashed potatoes and a black garlic emulsion; cheeky pollack with crispy skin, a lemongrass-ginger beurre blanc sauce and sautéed root vegetables – or a 120-day-year-old chicken breast, roasted and served in its jus with stuffing and a trio of potatoes (sautéed whole, mashed and chips); before a (too) big caramel millefeuille with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

FEELING THIRSTY? There are around 40 local wines: an Apremont from the Domaine Masson (€7 a glass), a Chignin-Bergeron from Gilles Berlioz (€52 a bottle), a red Savoie from their cousin Adrien Berlioz (€46), a Roussette-de-Savoie from Giachino (€39)… Along with some flashy Girondins, like the Pauillac Pontet-Canet (€250).

PRICE: Fondue €25, set menu €27 (weekday lunch), menus €33-49, kids’ menu €15.