Refuge de Porcherey
Camped out at 1,717 meters above sea level and heated with a wood-fired stove, the Porcherey refuge truly is beautiful to observe: Norway spruce walls, old untreated high mountain pasture wood, an uncut stone foundation, a winter terrace dug out from the snow drift… When it snows, join this dreamy chalet via the Epaule chairlift along the Marmottes run, and in the summer, take the GR du Tour du Mont-Blanc path. That’s where manager Hervé Jacquemoud hosts his guests around varnished tables, in a space with vintage skis and old soup tureens, for famished sport lovers. That day, on the simple and reinvigorating €30 lunch set menu: a springtime salad of raw veggies with lettuce, endives, red onion, red cabbage, beets, black radish, chives and carrots; sautéed and shredded veal in a five spice sauce, served with peppery gratin dauphinois potatoes; before a thick slice of tarte tatin or crème brûlée. To drink, there’s a biodynamic Côtes-du-Rhône from the Faucon Doré (€22 a bottle) or a Chignin Bergeron from Louis Magnin (€40). Menus €23-30 (summer), €25-32 (winter). // A.S.