Mumma

A wood-paneled facade, a black interior (a single serpentine banquette, wicker lampshades) that says “you’re in Chamonix” or perhaps Stockholm. And for good reason: behind the kitchen-counter, you’ll find the well-traveled Swedish chef David Lilieroth (LA, Le Cap), who’s been living in Chamonix since 2015, along with his cosmopolitan brigade. They shoot off small, globally-inspired plates: impressively delicate hamachi (Japanese amberjack) tataki seasoned with an orange and aji amarillo vinaigrette, paired with puffed rice noodles, on a bed of daikon radish and vinegary cucumbers; fried rice, jalapeño and crab balls, placed atop a bed of raw green cabbage with ponzu sauce and a sprinkling of grated Parmesan; then a more toned down silky tofu with broccoli tempura and a kombu seaweed condiment; a tender chunk of miso-braised cabbage with pomegranate, chives, almond cream and fried caper; mushroom gyoza with fried oyster mushrooms and marinated shimeji mushrooms, plus endive petals, pea shoots and a very lovely pistachio cream; finally, chosen from among the more simplistic but still pleasing selection of desserts, a beetroot-carrot cake with crème fraîche icing and redcurrant-Chinkiang vinegar jam. // Damien Sorin

FEELING THIRSTY? A wine selection that’s surprisingly well behaved, where you’ll find a Petit-Chablis from the Domaine Courtault (€9 a glass), Grololo, an Anjou red from Pithon Paillé (€8), a Savoie Persan from Quénard (€38 a bottle) or a chic Puligny-Montrachet from Les Buisson (€100).
PRICE: À la carte €25-49.