There’s no need to scale a treacherous peak to reach the ideal mountain refuge. In summer and winter alike, François-Régis Thévenet, an amateur geologist and mountain guide, and his cousin Étienne Baron, a former salesperson turned sommelier, carve out their perfect descent at this authentic bistro. Inside the vaulted space (exposed stone walls, a warm wooden ceiling) or seated at the handful of high tables or wine barrels on the terrace, we savor brilliant classics made with locally-sourced ingredients. The night we went, those included: achingly tender beef cheeks slow cooked in red wine, served with buttery mashed potatoes, as light as fresh snow, plus sourdough bread from Maison Bourdillat for wiping the plate clean; followed by a selection of aged raw milk cheeses, including wild garlic tomme and tomme céronnée. Devoured later off-piste, a delightfully runny fondant d’Arly (a local variety of Mont d’Or cheese), paired with browned new potatoes. // Pétunia Lipari
FEELING THIRSTY? : The wine is filled with regional gems and bottles from further away that stray off the beaten path, like a jacquère from the Domaine des Côtes Rousses (€38 a bottle), or a mondeuse from Paul Gardenne (€45)… The type of bottles that will have you giddily racing back down the valley at full speed.
PRICE: : Appetizers €8-11, mains €16-25, cheese and/or charcuterie boards €13, desserts €6-8.
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