Kaori Endo’s (ex-Nanashi and Rose Bakery) Japanese home cooking really suits this typical old East Parisian spot (red and white checkered tile floors, bright yellow tiled walls, Formica tables, faux-leather benches…). The other night, the chef unveiled a few secrets from Nagano, served family-style: warm roasted beets with whipped goat’s milk faisselle cheese, intensely flavorful wasabi, pine nuts and pumpkin seeds; creamy burrata seasoned with oil-packed anchovies and preserved lemon; prawn ceviche marinated in a silky apricot / coconut milk / turmeric sauce with samphire; incredible steamed sea bream fillet marinated in soy sauce with spring onions and fresh ginger, paired with oven-roasted peppers and eggplant glazed in smoking hot sesame oil… What about dessert? The lovely matcha and white chocolate cake was no longer available, so we opted instead for a pecan and raw apricot tartelette served with a scoop of vanilla whipped cream. At lunch, there’s miso soup, bento boxes (meat, fish or vegetarian options) and light snacks (azuki bean hummus, homemade terrine…). // Eric Taylor
FEELING THIRSTY? Natural (wine) is making a comeback: an Ardèche white from Sylvain Bock (€38 a bottle), a Burgundy grenache produced by Laurent Billard (€42), a Roussillon rosé from Stéphane Morin (€32)…
PRICE: Snacks €6-24, bento boxes €10-14 (lunch), small plates €5-16, shared plates €14-28 (dinner).
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