Kaori Endo’s (ex-Nanashi and Rose Bakery) Japanese home cooking goes very nicely with this typical old East Parisian spot (red and white checkered tiling, bright yellow tiled walls, Formica tables, faux-leather benches…). The other day at lunch, the chef unveiled a few secrets from Nagano: a small plate of nukazuke vegetables – fermented in rice bran; seriously enjoyable nitamago soft-boiled eggs; gourmet Albacore tuna mi-cuit over a bed of wild rice, nicely paired with green beans, eggplant caviar and cherry tomatoes; before azuki bean purée under a few greengage plums, whipped cream and a matcha-oat crumble sprinkled with black sesame seeds. At night, nibble on a handful of small plates (saucisson from Emmanuel Chavassieux, sweet potato croquettes with raw cream and Thai spices…) or share some big ones: roast lamb shoulder with honey and dried mint, plancha-grilled Albacore tuna paired with eggplant and a sesame dressing, etc. // M.J.-D.
FEELING THIRSTY? Natural is making a comeback: an Alsatian white from Kumpf et Meyer (€6 a glass), a LUX red from the Domaine Tricot (€32 a bottle) or an Hérault white from La Sorga (€36).
PRICE: Tapas €3-12, mains €15 to €17.50 (lunch), small plates €8-16, large shared plates €40-45 (dinner).