Le Saint Eutrope
Le Guide Fooding’s Best bistro 2015
The tireless duo of Harry and Alexandra Lester (ex-Auberge de Chassignolles) continue blowing guests away at their spot on rue Saint-Eutrope (an original façade painted green, grey tiles, woodwork, a Formica bar). For a mere €24, the lunch that day was another fine demonstration: juicy organic beefsteak tomatoes from the Chazals in Frugières-le-Pin; a vibrating combo of mara des bois strawberries, chrysanthemum sprouts, basil, shiso, plus black and red currants in a soy-basil sauce; delightful tajarin al ragù (a Piedmont specialty with homemade taglioni) with a mirepoix of onions, carrots, leeks and tomatoes, pork lardons, beef, veal and herbs; before an incredibly grandmotherly cherry tart, with homemade vanilla ice cream. At night, the menu is just as impressive: crayfish ravioli with a shellfish jus (€9); trout wrapped in lard (€16); an iced vacherin (€8); fig tart with homemade frozen yogurt (€7)…. As for the drinks, there are almost 300 natural labels to choose from, a rare feat in France and completely unheard of in Clermont: Karm, a rich Languedoc Tempranillo from Mylène Bru (€5.80 a glass); Les Pierres Chaudes from Patrick Meyer in Alsace (€24 a bottle); Erèbe, a Loire from Paul Gillet (€26), etc. Or even a La Franche IPA (€12 for 750 ml) or elderflower lemonade (€3.50). Set menus €14-27 (lunch), menus €32-38 (dinner), à la carte €29-36. // P.L.