Le Saint Eutrope

Le Saint Eutrope (Clermont-Ferrand)

© Simon Brown

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Le Saint Eutrope is dead, long live Saint Eutrope! After the departure of its legendary founder Harry Lester, who shook the Clermont gastronomic microcosm for nine years, this mecca for healthy revelers is reborn from its (still burning) ashes under the leadership of Michael Hazlewood and Manon Descombats. These two former harry-stocrats have spruced up the beast with even more Formica furniture, as well as a large wall fresco depicting a couple sipping wine, just to keep the feasting spirit alive with perfectly put together plates, fueled by the best local produce. Gobbled up on the terrace that afternoon: a huge slab of chicken and pork terrine simply decorated with a few pickled onions; a wicked pizza fritta draped in mortadella; homemade cappelletti with sage butter – oh so good we ordered it twice; exceptionally tender tarragon veal neck served with tournée-cut potatoes and a side salad; before a chocolate mousse that was outta this world! // Gwen Jacquère

FEELING THIRSTY? As Harry left with his treasure trove of wines, the menu has unfortunately gone from several hundred references to around 60, but should expand over time: a well-delineated muscadet from Marion Pescheux and Manuel Landron (€6 a glass), Ploutelou, a mouthwatering southern red from Jeff Coutelou (€30 a bottle), or an aromatic German white from Marto Wines (€42).

PRICE: Menu €27-40.

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