restaurant

Le Saint Eutrope

Le Saint Eutrope (Clermont-Ferrand)

© Louis Michaud

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Eutrope-moi si tu peux! Ever since British gastro-pubbers Alexandra and Harry Lester (who used to run the Auberge de Chassignolles) opened this authentic bistro in 2015, it remains the undefeated champion of its category. A new show of force came the other night, in the pretty dining room with a Formica bar, white tablecloths and framed artwork, where Harry gave us a lesson in applied bistrology. Served à la carte: a tantalizing pork bao bun, a pistou soup with lots of beans, ham (made from pigs raised by the owner) stunningly paired with thinly sliced melon, to warm things up; then he sped up to a gallop with a clever veal’s head with sauce gribiche, a blessedly good fried glazed pork belly over a bed of kimchi, and a beautiful veal roast glistening with a perfect, full-bodied jus, over a bed of spelt wheat polenta… Before a monumental chocolate-apricot tart for dessert! FYI: during the Covid-19 situation, Le Saint Eutrope and Le Quillosque (the adjacent wine bar) are operating as a single unit. // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? A glass of Ardèche Viognier from Andrea Calek (€6.50 a glass), the best of the Auvergne region (a Pinot noir from the Tricots at €33 a bottle, a Gamay from Patrick Bouju at €47…) and elsewhere – Grande Soif, a Riesling from Ruhlmann Dirringer (€22), Helvète, a Languedoc red from the Domaine La Sorga (€53)…

PRICE: À la carte €29-42.

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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