restaurant

Mandoobar

Mandoobar (Paris)

© Yves Nespoulous

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Nondescript K-pop playing in the background, exposed lightbulbs, a light inlaid wooden bar, a concrete workspace… Mandoobar is a sight for sore eyes, and it’s always packed with both fashionistas and a business-suit-wearing crowd! The day we went for lunch, the South Korean boss dazzled us with his classic mandoo (wheat and sticky rice flour dumplings, similar to Japanese gyoza) stuffed with a fragrant combo of chicken, minced fennel and shiso or marinated beef, garlic and sesame seeds. What came next? A selection of freshly-made tartares prepared with surgical precision: tuna seasoned with Korean chilies and toasted seaweed; thin slices of rumpsteak moistened by sesame oil; or our personal choice, sea bream flattered by Korean pepper and shiso sprouts. The desserts are delicious but rather one-note: coconut-charcoal or pandam-buckwheat ice creams… Thomas Jossin

FEELING THIRSTY? Plenty to tickle your taste buds: Korean Cas beer (€6), Junmai Ginzo sake from Workshop Issé (€12 for 90 ml), bekseju, a Korean fermented sticky rice and spice liqueur (€22 a bottle); and a selection of Korean teas (€10)…
PRICE: Dumplings €10-16, tartares €14-15, sides €5-8, sorbets €5.

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