Nabil and his wife, Sousana, have set up their restaurant Närenj (“bitter orange”) mere minutes away from the Sainte-Croix cathedral. As a Syrian refugee who arrived in France in 2016, this former computer engineer took destiny into his own hands thanks to the Refugee Food Festival and Stéphane Jégo (L’Ami Jean in Paris). In this very simply decorated restaurant (white walls, wooden tables, tapestries), he stews up accessible and delicious cuisine. The other day at lunch, served à la carte: a maternal mama ganoush made with fermented yogurt, beetroot and walnuts; heavenly beef meatballs with hummus, peppers and moutabal; a rare lahem bil karaz (sweet and sour lamb) with cherries from Orléans; before a nod to Jégo’s signature dessert with a pistachio rice pudding topped with cotton candy and Damascus rose petals. // I.K.
FEELING THIRSTY? Bottles from here and elsewhere: an organic Cheverny white from the Domaine des Huards (€29 a bottle), a Syrian red Bargylus (€50) or a Lebanese white from the Château Kefraya (€6 a glass).
PRICE: Set menu €30 (weekday lunch), menus €32-42, à la carte €31-41.