After all these years, Chef Antonin Bonnet (Michel Bras, Terence Conran, Asia, Green House, Le Sergent Recruteur) finally prepares his lucid cuisine in the intense quietude of his own place, across from the École Ferrandi. In his monastic bistro (square mirrors, tawny benches, indulgent staff), the discreet chef works diligently at every service and intoxicates his guests with the delicate simplicity of his cuisine. During our last visit there, on the €48 lunch menu: Kumamoto oysters and wild flat oysters from Maldon, paired with radish, yuzu confit and a dashi jelly; an intense soft-boiled egg with nettle soup, crisp broccoletti sprouts, and chard under a veil of lardo di Colonnata; flash-seared cuttlefish from Saint-Guénolé with Pink Fir Apple potatoes cooked in squid ink, with wild garlic (from the bulb to the leaf); meditative whiting with Sicilian peas, broad bean blossoms, pencil leeks, a radish top and dashi jus; sacrificial lamb with a divine licorice-flavored jus, artichokes from Bec-Hellouin, spinach, salted anchovies and sorrel; before a delicate spelt tartelette with Sicilian citrus, blood orange sorbet, and a milky thyme emulsion for the delightful finale. So many raw flavors that can be married by digging into the 150 labels from the very, very natural wine collection: Trousseau des Corvées from the Domaine de la Tournelle (€7 a glass), Mâcon-Chaintré VV from the Domaine Valette (€57 a bottle) or an Anjou Pompois from Nicolas Reau (€36). Menus €35-48 (lunch), €48-65 (dinner). // M.J.-D.