With its discreet façade, city-apartment feel and well-raised clientele, the lair of the former Sergent Recruteur boss brings a little quietude to the center of Paris. Between the oxidized mirrors and pastel-colored furniture, Antonin Bonnet’s hypnotic cuisine had us levitating out of our seats. At lunch, for €48: an umami-esque duo of oysters softened by a dashi jelly; a mound of Vesuvian and Black Krimm tomatoes sandwiched between basil and a grey Kalamata olive emulsion; Basque Country lamb fillet in a field of nasturtiums, sorrel and carrots cooked in heather honey; before an incredible woodruff ice cream under a muscovado sugar crisp, with a mixture of raspberries and blueberries from the gardens of Courances. At dinner, even more noble beasts join the ball on the €75 menu, like lobster from the Chausey Islands, with a Douglas pine vinaigrette and black lemon confit, or wild boar saddle with creamed parsnips. To drink, there are 150 pure natural wines: a red Patrimonio from Yves Leccia (€8 a glass), En Chapon, a white Bourgogne from Julien Altaber (€9), a tender Saumur-Champigny, Les Landes, from Bobinet (€36 a bottle), or a very lively Languedoc, Chat Zen, from La Sorga (€49). Menus €35-48 (lunch), €75 (dinner). // R.deC.