Le Fooding’s Best Bistrattoria of 2019

Simoneeeee!!! Seven days a week, the Sardinian master chef gives Parisian fans a taste of his secret Italy at this beautiful corner bistro in the Passage des Panoramas (old tiling, spotted mirrors, timeworn furniture, a secret dining room upstairs…). The other night, the plates gave off whiffs of la dolce vita: a stunning finocchiona (salami pimped out with fennel seeds) to get things started; vitello tonnato that had us practically licking our plate clean; voluptuous burrata from Puglia with fried peeled eggplant, cubed beetroot and an incredible Basque country red rancio vinaigrette with parsley and a dill-infused oil; legendary tagliatelle with a beef cheek ragù, capers and Parmesan; before a fantastic plum tart or a classic tiramisu for dessert. Special mention for the intimate little dining room upstairs, and the odd table in the covered passageway (you can’t reserve them in the winter), where you can enjoy the surroundings, provided you’re well-dressed enough… // C.C.

FEELING THIRSTY? Place your trust in Stephanie Crockford (front of house and sommelier), because they don’t have a wine list: a Colline-Pescaresci white from Abruzzo (€8 a glass), a Piedmont red from Carussin (€34 a bottle), a Valtolla orange from Emilie Romagne (€40).

PRICE: À la carte €47-59, carte blanche menu upon request.