Best bistrattoria of 2019
Be still, my beating heart. Pretend like you didn’t know that Simone (ex-Roseval) is back. No dear mother, don’t pray for my salvation: chef Simone is back! Tired eyes, feast yourselves upon this sight: 10 years after Jancou, Racines has been transformed into a trattoria. After Tondo (now Virtus) and him split, the Sardinian devil is heading back into battle at the Passage des Panoramas, with a short menu and a squadron of natural wines. The other night? A few lace-like slices of finocchiona (fennel saucisson) surrounding a peppery burrata (€14); mackerel shaken up with grapefruit and sunchokes (€15); then a blood-red plate of gnocchi in a sausage ragout, washed down with a volcanic SicilianPalmento (€45 a bottle), one normally reserved for weddings and feasts. How sweet hell is! So, pop open another bottle – an orange Massale Opi d’Aquí (€34) to pair with the summer tomme de brebis (€9) and the upstanding tiramisu (€8). We’re damnedfrom head to toe, and I’ll spit upon the heavens once more, now that my good Simone is taking on bistrattoria…. À la carte €36-51. // P.-H.B.