Best bistrattoria of 2019
Simoneeeee!!! Seven days a week, the Sardinian master chef gives fans a taste of his secret Italy at this beautiful corner bistro in the Passage des Panoramas (old tiling, spotted mirrors, timeworn furniture, a secret dining room upstairs…). The other night, the plates were packing serious punches left and right: a stunning finocchiona (salami pimped out with fennel seeds) to get things started; sweet and sunny quartered heirloom tomatoes, creamy stracciatella and finely ground oregano; exquisitely cooked monkfish tail with pan-fried new potatoes and broccoletti – or gigantic veal Milanese with a lemony mayonnaise; before a light tiramisu that had our nose deep in the bottom of the bowl! Good to know: less expensive than the other dishes, the pasta is also incredible – tagliatelle with beef cheeks, capers and Parmesan, or penne with fennel sausage and saffron ragù. // G.LeP.
FEELING THIRSTY? Place your trust in Stephanie Crockford (front of house and sommelier), because they don’t have a wine list… A magnificent Sicilian white from Aldo Viola (€9 a glass), a very drinkable Calabrian white from L’Acino (€7), an elegant Piedmont red from Carussin (€34 a bottle), etc.
PRICE: À la carte €46-58.