Tempilenti, or how to bring a little excitement to a nondescript bistro (apart from the tiling) on a sleepy street. Take Francesca Feniello, a Sardinian native who is equally at ease making veal sweetbreads with beans and pecorino as she is making lemon-ricotta ravioli in a sage sauce, plus Silvia Giorgione, who will explain the menu to you and turn you into a tifosi. Follow our lead and savor something like a warm potato cream with Venetian artichokes and bottarga for a little salinity, where silkiness, bitterness and brininess come together perfectly; followed by some devastatingly good al dente spaghetti with a buttery crumble topping made of anchovies, mint and lemon zest. Before succumbing to the iconic gianduja chocolate mousse, made with some heretical olive oil and fleur de sel. // Adrien Nouviaire
FEELING THIRSTY? Ecumenical wines, most of which are natural, and a minority of which come from conventional agriculture: an orange-wine-inspired 2017 Trebbiano from Abruzzo produced by the Domaine Tiberi (€7 a glass), a Piedmont red made by Barbera Barbarossa (€32 a bottle), or a Sicilian 2017 Rami from the Azienda Agricola Graci (€42)…
PRICE: À la carte €40-60.
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