Une Fille et des Quilles
Millefeuille-like shale walls, a concrete bar, a meat slicer, a wooden patio… This is one chic bistro with a Lelouch-esque name (think Une fille et des fusils from1964) that’s popping things off at the foot of the Saint-Maurice cathedral. Lighting up this powder keg known as Une Fille & des Quilles is Jade, a globe-trotting wine enthusiast who we’ve already seen at Les Rouquins, and Laurent, an ex-photographer in the advertising world. Their cave à manger features 400 natural wines and some respectable eats to keep you satisfied from apéro hour through mealtime: rillettes from Sarthe, Andalusian charcuterie from pigs raised on acorns (chorizo, morcón, salchichón, pata negra); wild boar pâtés; herbed rabbit; delectable Coco de Paimpol beans with mayonnaise; pork snout in vinaigrette; a delicious steak tartare; and a dish of the day that keeps things strictly carnivorous (with an exception onFridays, when it’s fish), like tender pork cheeks with olives, a lemon-ginger jus and creamed carrots. // D.N.
FEELING THIRSTY? Their liqueur license was broken in by the local bigwigs (Cousin,Mosse, Reau, Augereau, Laroche..), along with a few youngsters: a Chenin from Angers produced by Thomas Boutin (€5 a glass), a Mondeuse from Savoie produced by Mathieu Apffel (€31 a bottle) and an incredible Pinot from Julien Albertus (€32).
PRICES: Set menu €14.50 (lunch), plates €5-23.