At Une Fille et des Quilles (schist walls, a concrete bar, exposed pipes), Jade Haudebourg (ex-Les Rouquins in Paris) and Laurent Petit-Foreix (a photographer turned chef) pair bottles of naturalist wine with cheeky small plates. The night we went, we munched on all of the following: an explosively flavorful burrata with pesto and pine nuts; a velvety tomato gazpacho sprinkled with chorizo, cubed cucumber, briny sea beans and herbed croutons; an orgiastic terrine made with veal and foie gras, paired with piquillo peppers, a pepper condiment and a sprinkling of toasted hazelnuts; before a delicious lemon cake served with fresh strawberries and the first figs of the season. Some other options that we noticed on nearby tables: Sarthe rillettes, an Iberian charcuterie board (chorizo, salchichón, Bellota pata negra) and even a dish of the day, like the free-range, slow-roasted pork loin with new potatoes and a reduction. // A.D.
FEELING THIRSTY? There are a thousand labels of wine to choose from, many of which hail from the Loire Valley – L’Annexe, a Grolleau from the Domaine Terre de l’Elu (€5 a glass), Les Faraunieres, an Anjou white from the Domaine Andrée (€62 a bottle) – plus many other locations, like Y a plus qu’à, an Alsatian white from the Domaine Kumpf & Meyer (€25), or a Morgon vieilles vignes from Kéké Descombes (€39).
PRICE: Plates €6-21.
