Sophie, Nicolas – how does your garden grow? Obsessed with micro-seasons and short supply chains, Sophie Gigot and Nicolas Septon cultivate a little world of their own, part kitchen garden, part culinary playground, in the Liège region. In their deeply welcoming space (crackling fireplace, soft lighting, a lush, green terrace), Sophie keeps the glasses topped and mood cozy, while Nicolas builds menus that put vegetables firmly in the spotlight. The proof was on the plate that lunchtime: spring onion and nettle tempura to kick things off; elegant white and green asparagus, the former scattered with bacon crumble and glossed in hay-infused beurre blanc, the latter marinated in blackcurrant leaf vinaigrette; roasted oyster mushrooms lifted with wild garlic pesto and button mushroom purée; before a thrilling, rule-breaking detour into meat with duck three ways – breast with bitter orange sabayon, confit leg with barbecue sauce, and offal ravioli in bone broth. For dessert? A Dame Blanche ice cream sundae that swaps chocolate sauce for spent grain from a local brewery, for a final flourish that left us happily floored. · Marie-Boulette Saucey

Feeling thirsty? Expect the unexpected brews, with a non-alcoholic beverage pairing (€30-35) featuring forsythia-chamomile sparkling water, shallot coffee with fir pickles and a kumquat and carrot top oil combo, alongside a tight selection of natural wines, like a German sylvaner from Laura Seufert (€7 a glass) or Poignée de Raisins, a Rhône red from Gramenon (€45 a bottle).
Price: Lunch menu €49 (4 courses), dinner menu €77-92 (5-6 courses).