Super Gros

Let’s give you a quick summary of the situation: a blowout feast that’s as delicious as it is super gros! And for the more detailed version? After carrying them around on film sets, marriages and the TV show “Très Très Bon,” the excellent Anthony Cointre settled down with his pots and pans in tow on the Île de Groix for a delicious freak show, in this spot that’s a cross between a circus tent and a bistro. And if the decor is as resounding as the chef (a giant slide, waxed tablecloths, a circus sign), the cuisine is rather humbly put together. Ordered from the playful menu and served on neon yellow cafeteria platters: fried breaded mullet caught that very morning, served with a vinegary tartare sauce; grilled zucchini showered in crumbled lemony feta; decadent bone marrow with impeccably seasoned steak tartare; lemony potato purée which would be reason enough in itself to return to the island; a refreshing peach carpaccio alternating fresh peaches with those in syrup, sprinkled with piment d’Espelette… And on the next table over, a magnificent pinsa (Roman pizza) topped with artichokes, slow-roasted tomatoes, arugula, peppers and sea beans.  // Bérénice Delmy 

FEELING THIRSTY? : There’s no wine list, rather serve yourself straight from the wine cellar: Cuvée des Galets, a Côtes-du-Rhône from the Vignerons d’Estézargues (€4.50 a glass), L’Artillier, a melon from the Domaine Bras de Fer (€27 a bottle), or Aramonix, a Gard red from the Domaine Mont de Marie (€32). 
PRICE: : Small plates €8-14, pinsa €16, desserts €8-9, set menu €22 (during the week), à la carte €36-43 (dinner and weekends).