restaurant

¡Toma!

¡Toma! Restaurant (Liège)

© Jeroen Jorissen

  • Date
  • share

¡Toma! Come y cálla! “Take it, eat and shut up!” his Spanish grandmother would say. What better name for the new joint from Liège chef Thomas Troupin (ex-Menuiserie in Waimes) and Roger Gehlen. With its chiaroscuro dining room contrasted with the neon-lit dry-aging fridge in the background, velvety seats, an opening out onto the vegetable garden and ringside tables in front of the burning stoves, boy does ¡Toma! shine. That evening, the chef showed off his locavore-led “immersive cuisine”: perfect trout churros as an appetizer; a Petits Gris de Namur snail pizzette; puffed up bread with tortilla cream and black garlic aiolii, olé!; then a divine toasted bread layered structure with mushroom butter, mustard mayo, black truffle shavings and thin slices of flash-smoked veal from Lothar Vilz (which later appears shredded in a massive beetroot gnocchi – zero waste!); extremely tender Ondenval trout buttered with coffee and crowned with caviar made in Belgium; Menapii pork from Dierendonck, prepared three different ways (shredded on dauphine potatoes, slow-cooked with hoisin broth, and braised on a Japanese BBQ). And for the finale, a myriad of bite-sized Humberto root vegetable and citrus sweets, including a vibrant roasted celeriac flan with uda pepper and candied kumquat. // Lea Pelotti

FEELING THIRSTY? Well-chosen bottles for all persuasions, from the conventional to the naturalist: Château Thébaud, a mineral Muscadet from the Domaine de la Pépière (€65 a bottle), Terre Blanche, a Jura Chardonnay from François Rousset-Martin (€115), Tout Compte Tout Compte Fait, a 100% joyfully spicy red Mollard from the Domaine du Petit Août in the Hautes-Alpes (€69)…
PRICE: Menus (including water) €105-130, food and wine pairings €38-57, non-alcoholic pairings €20-30.

Save this spot in the Fooding app, available on iOS! Download it now in the app store.

The 2nd edition of the Belgium guide is available for pre-order!

Discover the latest selection of the Kingdom’s 350 best addresses (restaurants, bars, cellars, shops and bedrooms), an award’s list celebrating this year’s favorite spots, and a magazine section featuring 16 articles exploring the margins of the food world, its hidden stories and some of its most taboo subjects.

2024 Le Fooding Belgium guide frontcover
Pre-order now!
About

Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… And after conquering France, Belgium is Le Fooding guide’s latest playground!

Fooding® is a registered trademark.