After Pollen, Moloko and Bibendum in Avignon, Émilie and Mathieu Desmarest have set down in Roquemaure with a village bistro that nails chic, neo-rustic style (zellige tiles, wicker pendant lights, an old-school weighing scale, sunflower bouquets). At lunchtime, under the plane tree on the terrace, the plates hit all the right notes: toasted country bread topped with bottarga, olive oil and lemon zest; unbelievably good minty beef kefta with herby tzatziki, lavishly carpeted in Parmesan; and tuna steak with a smoked paprika Greek yogurt dip, fennel and Kalamata olives, served with your choice of creamy tahini green beans with toasted hazelnuts, eggplant parmigiana or truly killer homemade fries. Desserts stick to textbook bistro classics: dark chocolate mousse with salted cocoa crumble (also available in a kid-sized portion) or lemon posset paired with almond shortbread, yogurt ice cream and Italian meringue. · Megan Linar

FEELING THIRSTY? Local wines at wallet-friendly prices: a Tavel from Château Boucarut (€6.50 a glass), a Lirac white by Géraldine Saunier (€29 a bottle) or Les Cailloux, a polished Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Domaine André Brunel (€79).

PRICE: Set menu €20-36, à la carte €32-42.