Halfway between Bastille and Charonne, the cult Motel bar has swapped its indie soundtrack and sticky floors for polished parquet and a gleaming stainless-steel bar. Now at the helm: mixologists Vincent Pinceloup (Monsieur Antoine) and Guillaume Drouot (ex-Danico), chef Delphine Laguerre (ex-Kern and Sando Club), and marketer Étienne Gatti. Perched on matte-wood or chrome bar stools, come to drink and be seen, served by neo-barmen channeling a dive bar attitude. Get familiar with: a bracing White Forest Martini (white vermouth, gin, vodka, sake, fir liqueur, tarragon oil, a whisper of coconut) or a Bloody Mary-ish (mezcal, dashi, pineapple, celery, harissa, lemon juice), both at €14; a wildly drinkable mocktail that’ll make you giddy (espresso, curry, coffee syrup, cardamom, almond cream, €10); ice-cold canned Budweiser (€6); and even a selection of reliable natural wines, like a skin-contact gewürztraminer from Achillée (€38 a bottle). Hunger pangs are handled with an umami-rich eggplant katsu burger slathered in miso ketchup and fermented white cabbage (€12), or a pizza puff topped with whipped ricotta cream, provolone, pepperoni and honey (€15). · Harry Gobeur