Look out Brest, bottles are popping off in France’s Far Ouest! All thanks to one Clément Pavy (who used to work at the Hôtel Thoumieux and Le Bon Georges in Paris). He decided to settle down with his bottles in tow, not far from his wine merchant brother, in a former crêperie that had fallen into disrepair. Spread out over two levels, his bistro/wine shop with lots of old stone and wooden details, keeps locals’ thirst quenched with its natural beverages: A Capella, a straightforward 2019 skin-contact Riesling from the Domaine Loberger (€19.90); Onde, a Bordeaux red blend from Les Chais du Port de la Lune (€18); Escalada Do Sil, a 2018 Galician blend produced by Alberto Orte (€41)…. And in addition to all that, locally-made hard apple and pear ciders (Divona, a dry cider from Johanna Cécillon at €10 for 750 ml, Ad Astra from Antoine Marois at €14), Breton beers (NEIPA from Brasserie Sauvage at €6.50 for 440 ml), and even a selection of well-chosen spirits – including a single malt Twelve whisky from the Aubrac (€68 for 500 ml). In short, it’s a gold mine packing lots of biodynamic nuggets, which are made even better by the small offering of terroir-ist plates – bass and sea bream tartare seasoned with sea beans and pomegranate seeds; blood sausage with sautéed apples; cheeses from the Ferme du Vaumadeuc… // Carla Fouti
The bullet-proof bottle: Serres-Seques 2020, a petit Manseng vinified by Jean-Baptiste Semmartin at the Domaine Lajibe (€28).
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