19 Saint Roch

The bird is in the cage, we repeat, the bird is in the cage! After some high-flying escapades throughout the capital (Vivant 2, Déviant) and Arles (Drum Café), in addition to a few international migrations, Pierre Touitou finally landed majestically on Rue Saint-Roch. His latest nest? A former Japanese restaurant decked out with monochromatic tomette tiles, solid wood furniture and long mirrors, where he sends out a stratospheric menu. Suffice it to say, the other day at lunch there was plenty to gush about in between bites: brilliant cuttlefish with a lovely saffron and pimentón de la Vera golden hue; graceful veal tartare dressed in a green peppercorn mayonnaise and served with barbecued pear and fried potatoes; perfectly prepared brill served with chard spaghetti in béchamel sauce; ditalini (small tube-shaped pasta) and coco de Paimpol beans doused in pistou prepared with brill bard: and to round out the meal, a flamboyant chocolate sorbet with smoked chilies from the Béarn. // Angela Dulo

FEELING THIRSTY? : A wine collection that soars to new heights: a sparkling chenin produced by Lise and Bertrand Jousset (€9 a glass), Tot, a Catalan red from Celler Tuets (€8), a Jura savagnin from the Domaine de la Tournelle (€80 a bottle)…along with an El Maestra Sierra sherry for apéro hour (€13 for 60 ml), and incredible liqueurs by Laurent Cazottes for a post-dinner drink (walnut or greengage plum brandy, €12-17 for 40 ml).
PRICE: : À la carte €58-67.