Foujita

Chopstick lovers take note! A little further away from the looooong lines outside the Japanese eateries on Rue Sainte-Anne, you’ll find one of the oldest suhiyas in Paris (pale walls, dark wood, small bowls lined up on the shelves). Named after a painter from the Roaring Twenties, Foujita draws in crowds of regulars at both lunch and dinner, who come for the chef’s small masterpieces. You’ll see him working, eyebrows furrowed, behind the long counter, skillfully slicing extremely fresh seafood. The night we went, after a small bowl of slightly less than crisp edamame, we devoured an assortment of sublime sashimi (salmon, tuna, mackerel, sea bream, octopus) then some tender eel temaki drizzled in unagi sauce (mirin, soy sauce, sake, sugar) that came highly recommended by the next table over; and to round out the meal, a comforting matcha and azuki bean ice cream duo. FYI: the traditional seating area in the back of the room provides you with an opportunity to show off your most eye-catching socks. // Laura Dargent

FEELING THIRSTY? Sakes served hot or cold, by the glass or by the pitcher (€6-14), a few anonymous wines (Sancerre, Muscadet or Brouilly, €12-19 for a 500-ml pitcher) and Kirin (€5 for 330 ml) or Asahi beer (€7 for 500 ml).
PRICE: Set menus €17-19 (lunch), dinner €27-35 (dinner).